Something rather odd happened today, spent an hour or two on the Healey getting the front wing lower repair section ready for welding and upon return to the computer I discovered an email from a BN1 restorer. Someone is reading this, had better watch my Ps & Qs.
I've gone and entered a half Ironman next summer so need to cycle a bit at the weekends which has had a devastating impact on the Healey time. Got to get work in line so I can get more time in the week. I very much enjoyed the grinding today though. I hope to get on the case on Saturday, will keep you posted.
Tuesday, 26 November 2013
Tuesday, 12 November 2013
Took a sneaky hour or so in the garage and cut off the bottom of the near side wing. Started to line up the replacement section then got distracted by trying the sill on to realise that the door is a little twisted or just plain bent, either way it was enough to cause me to put down the hammer and scarper for the sofa.
I noticed that the lower section of the wing left after the rotten section was removed was rather bumpy and realised that it must have been filled with lead. I took the Oxy-Actelene to it and the lead fell to the floor. I can only presume that this repair was done whilst the car was new because the wing was very deformed and any panel beater would have been able to get it flatter than it was unless they couldn't be bothered to remove the wing to do it. And in that case it would have been a cheap/fast repair and therefore unlikely to be done with lead, unless of course it was done in the days before modern filler was widely used? Just in case you have a moment to ponder the likely causes of lead use. I might put a lead kit on my Christmas list as a result though. Talking of Christmas, do you like the look of Santa Paws?
I was pleased to get into the garage on a Tuesday as work is back to its most demanding and I don't want to leave the car to weekends only.
Until next time.
I noticed that the lower section of the wing left after the rotten section was removed was rather bumpy and realised that it must have been filled with lead. I took the Oxy-Actelene to it and the lead fell to the floor. I can only presume that this repair was done whilst the car was new because the wing was very deformed and any panel beater would have been able to get it flatter than it was unless they couldn't be bothered to remove the wing to do it. And in that case it would have been a cheap/fast repair and therefore unlikely to be done with lead, unless of course it was done in the days before modern filler was widely used? Just in case you have a moment to ponder the likely causes of lead use. I might put a lead kit on my Christmas list as a result though. Talking of Christmas, do you like the look of Santa Paws?
I was pleased to get into the garage on a Tuesday as work is back to its most demanding and I don't want to leave the car to weekends only.
Until next time.
Sunday, 3 November 2013
So I posted the list of parts and tempted as I am to say how much they cost I don't think I will. I will show you what they look like though:
Doesn't seem right does it, two small boxes. Oh well. The horn push looks good though:
So I managed to get the car out yesterday as the weather was sunny in London. I think that my wing repair is ok for the time being.
If you follow the gap up to the top of the door/wing then you'll see that the door gap gets bigger, considerably so. I put this down to poor craftsmanship on the part of the door manufacturer and I think the only way to solve it will be to get it welded. I have quite a few aluminium bits and pieces that need welding so I'm thinking of finding somebody to come to me rather than me cart all the bits to a welder.
So anyway I decide that the lines on the car are a little inconsistent and fall back into that state of procrastination that I know so well.
Doesn't seem right does it, two small boxes. Oh well. The horn push looks good though:
So I managed to get the car out yesterday as the weather was sunny in London. I think that my wing repair is ok for the time being.
If you follow the gap up to the top of the door/wing then you'll see that the door gap gets bigger, considerably so. I put this down to poor craftsmanship on the part of the door manufacturer and I think the only way to solve it will be to get it welded. I have quite a few aluminium bits and pieces that need welding so I'm thinking of finding somebody to come to me rather than me cart all the bits to a welder.
So anyway I decide that the lines on the car are a little inconsistent and fall back into that state of procrastination that I know so well.
I didn't take any pictures of the other side for some reason and I know that it isn't possible to see the line of the side of the car on these photos but they are different. So I think I'll get on with the wing and the A post on the near side and then take a view.
The door is sitting too high but I decided that this is the positioning of the hinges rather than the A post so I move onto the wing. I realise that the front rolled edge of the repair section doesn't match the original so decide to leave the original rolled edge and cut the rot away from behind the wheel arch. enough for today I think.
Thursday, 31 October 2013
Whilst I have been away from the garage I have made progress in other areas. I visited John, the 100 register man, for some of his old spares. I had a great time there, in fact it was a whole Saturday and then the following Wednesday morning, poor chap is probably sick of me. I managed to buy so many parts and get my horn push repaired, thanks John. I obtained:
LININGS & RIVETS-front (set) |
BRAKE SHOES - REAR (EXCHANGE) - BR4500 |
BRAKE HOSE - FRONT - BR4390 |
RESERVOIR - SINGLE SUPPLY - BR4010 & pipe |
STRAP-reservoir with bolt+nut |
BRASS CONNECTOR - 3 WAY - BR4790 |
BRASS CONNECTOR KIT- 5 WAY & BRAKE SWITCH - BR4842 |
TAIL/FLASHER LIGHT (ORIG. LUCAS) - LG4013 |
SIDE/FLASHER LIGHT - FRONT - LG4010 |
GASKET - BOWL TO BODY (3 ADJ.) ORIG. LUCAS - LG4391 |
HEADLAMP BOWL - BULB TYPE (ORIG. LUCAS) INCL. ADJ. - LG4361 |
BRASS NUT - H/L (BUCKET TO BODY) - LG4330 |
INNER RIM ASSY. - 3 ADJ. - LG4490 |
HEADLAMP RIM - CHROME - LG4530 |
HEADLAMP PIGTAIL - C/W ADAPTOR - ORIG. LUCAS - LG4451 |
PACKING PIECE - MASTER CYL RHD - BR4061 |
100/4 Brake Pedal Complete RH Drive |
100/4 Clutch Pedal Complete RH Drive |
Pedal feet |
2 Pedal shaft levers and spacer |
SAFETY CATCH (COMPLETE) - BN4088 |
STRIKER PIN - BONNET CATCH - BN4010 |
STRIKER SPRING - BONNET CATCH - BN4020 |
SPRING CUP - BONNET CATCH STRIKER - BN4030 |
BRACKET - BONNET STRIKER PIN - BN4032 |
TENSION SPRING - BONNET CATCH - BN4040 |
Tension Spring bracket |
CONNECTING ROD - CLUTCH (ADJUSTABLE) - CL4091 |
CONNECTING ROD - CLUTCH (NON-ADJUSTABLE) - CL4111 |
RETURN SPRING - CLUTCH PEDAL - CL4130 |
Clutch relay lever |
BRACKET - BONNET STRIKER - BN4255 |
GUIDE PLATE - BONNET LOCK - BN4260 |
SLIDE PLATE - BONNET LOCK - BN4270 |
SUPPORT - SLIDE PLATE - BN4280 |
RELEASE ROD ASSY - BONNET - BN4190 |
BRACKET - THROTTLE PEDAL - FL5010 |
THROTTLE PEDAL - RHD - FL5080 |
BEARING - THROTTLE RELAY ROD - FL5095 |
LEVER - ACCELERATOR PEDAL SHAFT - FL5130 |
LEVER - ACCELERATOR RELAY SHAFT (3/8 SHAFT) - FL5132 |
BALL JOINT - THROTTLE LINKAGE (U.N.F.) - FL4922 |
CARBURETTER LINK RODS & NUTS (CUT TO LENGTH) - FL5050 |
LINK ROD - THROTTLE SWITCH - ES4320 |
Used Wheel spinner |
Trafficator stator tube |
CABLE - DOOR PULL - DR4140 |
KNOB - DOOR LOCK - DR4160 |
SOCKET - SIDESCREEN FITTING - SD4070 |
OIL SEAL - FRONT HUB - SF4360 |
WHEEL BEARING - FRONT INNER - SF4370 |
WHEEL BEARING - FRONT OUTER - SF4380 |
BOOT HINGE - RH - BT4010 |
BOOT HINGE - LH - BT4011 |
LOCK - BOOT - BT4050 |
STRIKER PLATE - BOOT LOCK - BT4150 |
TELESCOPIC PROP ROD - BT4060 |
PACKING PIECE - SEAT RUNNER - ST4050 |
BASE PLATE - SEAT RUNNER - ST4051 |
PACKING PIECE - SEAT RUNNER - Drivers Side |
TUBE NUT - SEAT SLIDE - ST4070 |
AH BOOT BADGE - BD4050 |
So, I re-read the old posts and realise that I haven't made loads of progress but I have been enjoying what I have done. I came back to the off-side A post and after a several attempts got it in a position that I am happy enough with. I went to the Orchard Restorations open day before the summer and whilst I enjoyed going there with my wife and the dog I didn't see any 100's in the workshop.
We also went to the Rawles Motorsport day and there were no 100's being worked on there either. I have been very lucky so far in that those open days that I have attended over the years have had 100's being worked on in the workshops which has meant that I have been able to take measurements and make notes etc. What I did note though was that the lines on the 100's in the car park were a little wayward. The swage line was good on all cars but if one looked from the rear then the wings and doors tend to be a bit wavy. This was a bit of a relief as I had been fighting to get mine perfect and it was just driving me mad but I now realise that where I am at with my BN1 is quite normal. Hence I have moved on from the A post on the off side.
The above photos show the A post in place. So I moved on to the wing, cut off the wrecked bottom section and welded on the repair:
I had to flatten the rear return to extend the panel from the BN2 dimensions to the BN1 size required. I needed to add an additional section in for the bottom corner.
When I bent over the extra metal to create the rear edge of the wing I got it miles out. I was surprised as the edge was straight on the bench! anyway, I fitted it on the car and was horrified to see how far out I was so I had to open the return out and reform it.
The above photo shows that the second attempt was still out so I decided that I needed a beer to recoup my energy before having another go.
Once I have this sorted I intend to have a go at the rear wing which will need a lot of modifying then it is over to the near side to repeat the whole process, could take a while. All in all it feels good to be getting on with it again.
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Orchard Restorations open day
We also went to the Rawles Motorsport day and there were no 100's being worked on there either. I have been very lucky so far in that those open days that I have attended over the years have had 100's being worked on in the workshops which has meant that I have been able to take measurements and make notes etc. What I did note though was that the lines on the 100's in the car park were a little wayward. The swage line was good on all cars but if one looked from the rear then the wings and doors tend to be a bit wavy. This was a bit of a relief as I had been fighting to get mine perfect and it was just driving me mad but I now realise that where I am at with my BN1 is quite normal. Hence I have moved on from the A post on the off side.
This is what happens when teachers go on strike |
Trial fitting the wing |
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The edge after the first reforming process |
Once I have this sorted I intend to have a go at the rear wing which will need a lot of modifying then it is over to the near side to repeat the whole process, could take a while. All in all it feels good to be getting on with it again.
Wednesday, 30 October 2013
Well it's been a long time. Not because I haven't been working on the 100 but because I've been away for the summer and had a computer failure meaning that I couldn't download any pictures or make fresh posts. In case you're interested the school did well this year and the Maths department held it's own so my wife and I had a few pitchers of beer in sunny Florida on the 22nd to celebrate. I couldn't face Windows 8 so decided to go for a Macbook; the main issue with this strategy is that my laptop broke a month or more ago and I decided to wait for the new version to be released. Only the second day of ownership so I haven't figured out how to post pictures yet, I know, I know, I'm slow.
Sunday, 14 April 2013
Back to the off side panels with a fresh perspective and I spent many hours tinkering joyously in some spring sunshine.
I started by moving the 'a' post forward to see if I could get any joy with the door gaps. They improved but at the expense of the wing which was now pushed too par forward. I have sold my MIG but not yet collected the new one as I am waiting for a Machine Mart VAT free day which just so happens to be next Friday so I got the Oxy-Acetylene welding equipment out. This was fun as it was another thing that I have not done for 20 plus years. I blew a few small holes before I got the hang of it and then rather enjoyed it, in some ways it seemed easier than the MIG was. I decided to wait until the weekend to return the 'a' post to its last position as an excuse to test it.
I then removed a piece of the sill return and managed to get a much better fit of the inner wing which was good. I then noticed that there is still some remnants of the wing bottom on the near side wing and that tells me that the wings were cut back on the inside to allow it to fit over the inner wing. My repair panels are not shaped that way but I'm not sure I trust them to be truly accurate. Either way I have two possible routes forward with this area which is good.
I then began modifying the wing repair to make it the required length. At some point I fell into a deep ponder and spent several hours looking and measuring various parts of the body before I threw the towel in and went to pick up all the dog output on the lawn, until next time...
I started by moving the 'a' post forward to see if I could get any joy with the door gaps. They improved but at the expense of the wing which was now pushed too par forward. I have sold my MIG but not yet collected the new one as I am waiting for a Machine Mart VAT free day which just so happens to be next Friday so I got the Oxy-Acetylene welding equipment out. This was fun as it was another thing that I have not done for 20 plus years. I blew a few small holes before I got the hang of it and then rather enjoyed it, in some ways it seemed easier than the MIG was. I decided to wait until the weekend to return the 'a' post to its last position as an excuse to test it.
I then removed a piece of the sill return and managed to get a much better fit of the inner wing which was good. I then noticed that there is still some remnants of the wing bottom on the near side wing and that tells me that the wings were cut back on the inside to allow it to fit over the inner wing. My repair panels are not shaped that way but I'm not sure I trust them to be truly accurate. Either way I have two possible routes forward with this area which is good.
I then began modifying the wing repair to make it the required length. At some point I fell into a deep ponder and spent several hours looking and measuring various parts of the body before I threw the towel in and went to pick up all the dog output on the lawn, until next time...
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